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The beginning of a school year at an international school in Jerusalem is a bit untidy. Putting aside the general problem of returning to a very different student population than that of the previous year many families from the international aid and UN services only stayed a year in Jerusalem the Jewish High Holidays were usually celebrated very early on, a whole week off school, sometimes only a week after we had started the term, with Sukkot Feast of Booths , a two-day holiday, following hard on their heels.
I was pondering the strange way in which this potential educational disaster actually materialized into a very positive induction period for most of our new students as I walked home down The Street of the Prophets a few days before the start of Sukkot. The modern Jewish homes on the left-hand side all flaunted their sukkahs.
Another had made use of a balcony to provide the basis of the booth, then added a roof of woven mats. It was easy to spot what I considered to be a most incongruous item: every sukkah had palm fronds, leafy branches and etrogs, all made of plastic, hanging from the rafters as decorations.
So, what is an etrog? I knew already, as Auntie had pointed out to me her etrog tree, neatly fitting itself into the first bend of the alleyway leading to the courtyard. It was, she had said proudly, the only etrog tree in the Old City and it even bore fruit. I was less than impressed, however, when I came to taste the inside of this large, knobbly, yellow fruit. In fact I did not attempt to try it straight from the tree, only a chutney made by thrifty Auntie, who could never bear any foodstuff to go to waste.
Even made a fraction more interesting with sugar and spices, etrog is basically a prototype anaemic lemon with a faintly citrus flavour. When I had turned off the road into the alleyway and reached the etrog tree I found that Auntie was entertaining a visitor. A very tall, imposing Hasidic Jew wearing the usual heavy black tail-suit, no tie and an enormous circular flat hat trimmed with auburn fur was standing facing Auntie, diminutive in her red-flowered housecoat.