This sets the tone for a medieval centre of timber-framed houses, Romanesque churches and vaulted passageways. The panoramas from the esplanade are very photo-worthy, rolling out over the Cher Valley and taking in the Massif Central to the south.
This combines two historic mansions in the old town, one of which has kept its historic identity, and the other has been transformed with modern design. Best of all is the assortment of instruments, totalling more than 3,, and the oldest from the middle of the 18th century. This is the largest single collection in France, with anything from hurdy-gurdies to electric guitars. The interior is Romanesque, from the s, and has peculiar features like little passageways linking the nave with each transept on either side.
Winding around the hill are steep, tight streets with an historic building to catch your eye every few metres. The main street, Grand Rue, swoops below the castle and has timber-framed houses from the s and s.
On the upper terrace is a French formal garden with square-shaped carpet beds and lawns bordered by low boxwood hedges. The building only opens in summer but the gardens are free to enter all year round, and are worthwhile for the views, sculpture and landscaping. The later redesign was ordered by Louis II de Bourbon, who also expanded the castle at the top of the hill. Inside, among the antique tools, models, paintings and documents, there are some old lock gates, with an explanation of how they worked.
And moored out front are two genuine barges that actually navigated the canal, and were saved from the scrap yard when the museum opened in the 70s. The thermal springs were discovered back in Gaul and were developed by the Romans who built two palatial baths here. So in July and August you can hire a pedal boat or four, five, six or eight-seater electric vessels for a little voyage through the Allier countryside.
