Legends and myths thrive in the Solomon Islands, but perhaps none so captivating as the stories of giants who live deep within the jungles of Guadalcanal. I spoke with locals who chuckled as they dismissed the giant tales as nothing more than the old fashioned folklore of a country where fear, hardship and unexplained death give natural rise to myths. We were right in it too, though less in the pursuit of giants and more on a muddy mission to find a waterfall. The wilds of the jungle combined with cultural triggers of being in a developing nation where English as well as pidgin English is spoken reminded me of Belize in Central America.
Belize is an adventure; a tiny country with spectacular and dark jungles, ancient Mayan caves and a heavy air of intrigue. With its underwater riches as similarly special as those in the Solomon Islands, I kept thinking I was back there. Having left the 4WD at a small mountain-top resort with views all the way out to coastline below, Godfrey had us setting a good pace through the forest. As I clambered and perspired, Godfrey did it all without shoes and seemingly without a bead of sweat.
He was shy but friendly and as relaxed as if we were guests checking out his backyard. Perhaps we were. Descending through the jungle towards the Chea River, we clung to vines, bounced from tree to tree and ultimately gave in to the mud. Reaching the river was worth it. Towering from both sides was untamed jungle of such beauty I realised I was slowing down Godfrey and Annabel to keep pressing click on my camera.
Walking over rocks and wading through the water, after 90 minutes we could hear the pounding. Rounding a bend, vines dangled from branches straddling the river, only slightly distracting from what was behind: the 61m high Tenaru Falls.
Widely hailed as one of the must-see waterfalls of the South Pacific, we ditched our bags and jumped in the circular pool at the foot of the falls. Unable to get right underneath due to the force of the falling water, the visual of the jungle and the curve of green rocky walls that flanked the falls was magic.
